London Jewellery Week 2011 – special post-show feature

Intro
So, after much excitement and a long build-up, the 4th annual London Jewellery Week has come and gone. With a packed schedule of events throughout the week, the trade, media and public had the opportunity to celebrate the capital’s collective effort in promoting the best of the UK jewellery sector. Established brands and upcoming designers showed their wares side-by-side, with many a rising star making their mark in this competitive industry. Expectations were shaky to start with, given that we are still under the shadow of a recession, but that did little to dampen the spirits of all those that took part. And, the jewellery industry did not disappoint. There were plenty of scheduled events and spontaneous activities to keep even the most discerning appeased. From open workshops to new collection launches, jewellery fashion shows and evening parties; it was indeed a successful week given the tough state of the economy.

Events
There were numerous events taking place throughout the week, which all had the aim of engaging the trade and consumer alike. Many of the specialist jewellery retailers hosted open evenings and Champagne receptions, as well as offering consultations and a behind-the-scenes look at jewellery making.
Some of the key events of the week included the launch of the Platinum Heritage Collection, sponsored by PureJewels, the Hatton Garden Festival and the Royal Exchange’s jewellery catwalk event. Other highlights included the Central St. Martins Jewellery Award in association with Cool Diamonds, the launch of Alex Monroe’s Chrysanthemum collection at Liberty and Swarovski Gems, with Nadja Swarovski hosting the Gem Visions trend presentations for 2012 to a select group of invited guests.

Fairtrade and Ethical
The issue of Fairtrade and ethically sourced goods and services across all industries have been biting at our collective consciousness for years. We’ve seen how small communities have been exploited for their coffee beans and bananas, and further up the food chain, precious minerals and diamonds. However, up til now, gold has pretty much remained under the radar. But thankfully change is afoot and the issue of fairmined gold is gaining momentum as the general consumer becomes aware of the cost of mining to the small communities digging deep for our insatiable appetite for all things gold. So to launch Fairmined Gold and Essence at the ethical pavilion at Treasure, curated by Cred, the Fairtrade Foundation celebrated the occasion by hosting a VIP reception. Raising much needed awareness of the plight of small artisanal miners from around the world, and helping to raise standards through Fairtrade and fairmined certified gold, this was a tremendous opportunity to meet with some of the miners in attendance benefiting directly and the jewellery designers making a difference.

Treasure
The designers showcasing at Treasure were a great mix of new and established names in jewellery. Over 120 designers and brands took part this year, which featured some great jewellery designs and concepts. Amongst some of my favourites were this year’s winners of the Treasure Designer of the Year award; Yunus & Eliza, showing some of their beautiful sculptural designs that have won them a big following from the movies and fashion circles. Others include Tomasz Donocik, with his fantasy collection, The Garden of Good & Evil. Jesper Velling, with his award-winning stunning vibrant colour diamond twist rings and Milena Kovanovic, with her clever use of vivacious gemstones inspired by by the natural world.

London Jewellery Week – designers

I have chosen the following stand-out pieces from each collection – two from each designer, which were shown at Treasure. They are accompanied by a short description from the designers themselves

Madhuri Parson

Yellow gold and multi-coloured sapphires peacock cuff bracelet

“Inspired by the national bird of India for its regal charm, this bold yet elegant bracelet is simply dazzling. 14-karat yellow gold handcrafted cuff bracelet set with sapphires and white topaz gemstones in black rhodium.”



Radiant sapphires and white topaz peacock necklace

“Also inspired by the national bird of India, this elegant statement piece is hand crafted in 14-karat yellow gold matte and high polish finishes. The necklace is studded with white topaz semi-precious gemstones and multi-coloured sapphires in black rhodium polish around the necklace. “

www.madhuriparson.com

Tomasz Donocik

Water Lilly Pad Ring & Tinkerbell Pendant


Fine jewellery collection: “inspired by the paradox of the natural world, The Garden of Good & Evil fuses the sinister side of beauty
with the evident delicate snowbells with fluid moving cups that juxtapose Venus fly traps.”

www.tomaszdonocik.com



Jayce Wong


Capri Pearl earring & Capri Pearl ring

“Capri pearl ring & Capri Pearl Earrings set in 18k white gold, featuring Tahitian pearls, silver diamonds, blue sapphires and tsavorites

Inspired by all the coral print while on holiday in Capri, the pieces explore the different shades of blue, green and grey of the coral
and the iridescent of the Tahitian pearls.”

www.jaycewong.com

Regina Aradesian


Pendant & Ring: 18ct white gold, plique-a-jour enamel, diamonds

“My work explores the intricacies of the cellular world observed through a microscope combined with traditional Armenian patterns. The jewellery is formed from precious metals with transparent plique-a-jour enamels, which when lit from behind create the impression of tiny stained glass windows.”

www.aradesijewellery.com

Yunus And Eliza

The Dali Puppet ring: It is 18k gold plated silver, with enamel

“The Dali puppet ring is inspired by Surrealism. Its delicately elongated portrait snaking up the finger and over your knuckle is a fusion of Classical Goddess and Futuristic fantasy. The river of luxurious translucent black enamel hidden on the back gives it a bold decadence.”

The Goddess Pendant: 18k gold plated silver, with enamel

“The Goddess Pendant is signature Yunus & Eliza, instantly recognisable in its sculptural figurative decadence. Theatrical and with a nod to the darker side, the Goddess Pendant can count Helena Christensen as one of its fans. Representing strength, beauty and inner wisdom, the Goddess collection returns each season in evolving vibrant colours.”

www.yunus-eliza.co.uk

Jesper Velling

Award-winning handmade platinum & diamond/pink diamond twist rings

Handmade diamond & black Tahitian pearl ‘Corona’ cufflinks

“The Corona Cufflinks are handmade using the same technology as the award-winning Corona Ring. Each cufflink features a 5mm black Tahitian Pearl in the centre surrounded by 15 2.5mm brilliant-cut diamonds (E/F in colour VS clarity). The Diamond Twist Ring is a handmade platinum ring, channel set with approximately 144 brilliant cut white diamonds, totalling over 2.75carats.”

www.jespervelling.com

Nada Ghazal

Matrix rings: 18k gold with 3ct diamonds

“Matrix is highly influenced by order. The order, which is another side I love, with the perfect parallel lines, the perfect stones and the shiny gold.”

Malak rings: 18k raw white and yellow gold with 8ct of icy diamonds. Brushed finish.

“Malak is inspired by nature. Expressed through the soft organic shape, the rough diamond stones are a combination of yellow and pure white gold, without a touch of rhodium.”

www.nadag.com

Milena Kovanovic

Coral Earrings – 18ct white gold earrings set with rubies and blue Andean opal cabochons.

Sea Urchin Ring – 18ct white and rose gold set with 0.79ct demantoid garnets and a 10.99ct Rubellite cabochon

“Dazzling arrays of vibrant gemstones set in 18ct gold evoke the kaleidoscope of colours found in our oceans. Inspired by this rich and varied underwater paradise, the one of a kind pieces in the collection capture a glimpse of this fast disappearing environment.”

www.milenakovanovic.com

Jig Pattni

The Kiss – white gold, black and white diamonds

The Orgasm – white gold, black and white diamonds

“I was inspired by one of my favourite artists, Eric Fischl. He painted the Travel of Romance 1-5, which I fell in love with in the mid-90s. The shapes dramatically symbolise the male and female interaction, through a journey.“

www.jigpattni.com

Natalia Schroder

The spike ring – 14ct green gold, aa-class Tahitian pearl

“The spike ring, inspired by the interplay of classic and contemporary elements in modern architecture and giving a new interpretation to the classical pearl jewellery.”

The orchid thumb ring – silver and gold plated

“The orchid thumb ring is inspired by the contrasts of the modern woman; aggressive but gentle, powerful but wise, sophisticated but Innocent. A soft, wild and untamed Flower with a fine touch of sensual erotica.”

www.natalia-schroder.com

Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskaran

Drama & Destruct necklace

“The Drama & Destruct necklace is my favorite from the new pieces, and defines my translation of tribal deco. It was actually inspired by Kali, the Goddess of time and of destruction. For me, this piece epitomises her and is my modern depiction of her as a fierce 21st-century warrior Goddess!”

www.easternmystic.com